4.5 Whole Yards of Disapointment! Yay!

November 9, 2011 at 3:10 am (Dress Diaries, General costuming, Updates) (, , , , )

The fabric I ordered arrived today! [Triple bagged as usual.] And I’m thinking about returning at least half of my order!

I was so excited to finally get to see the fabric my camisole will be made out of as well as the fabric my corset -might- be made out of. It was all really really great until I got to what I thought was going to be the perfect fabric for the ‘windows’ in my robe sleeves as well as the back of my camisole.

I don’t know if there is anything worse than opening up something you expected to be so perfect only to find out it’s not.

Dumb me thought that the nylon chiffon tricot I bought months back was the same as the polyester organza that came with it. I don’t know how I made the mistake. The sticker was still on the piece of organza! Ugh…

The broadcloth I bought is much too thick, a lot thicker than any other ‘brand’ of broadcloth I’ve bought in the past, and the ivory cotton lawn is way too yellow to be considered a match!

Ivory Cotton Lawn – Off white broadcloth – White Eyelet”]And here is a close up of the wonderful eyelet fabric. [This is more to show off the scalloped edge than anything else.]

If there’s anything I’ve learned from this purchase it is that my vision of ivory is more of an off-white than anything and that  I really, really don’t care for the colour ivory.

Oh well…

Now I have to call them  up tomorrow to see if I can return all four and a half yards. This will be my first time returning something to Fabric. com so I’ll let you how that goes. They’ve been pretty good so far. My orders don’t take more than a week to get here, even when I ordered 10 yards on a gigantic roll, which is good when I’m really excited about the project I’m working on.

But other than those few things, the rest of the order is great. I’m really digging the wine-coloured poly/cotton twill I bought for the corset. I would have loved if they had the same colour in a 100% cotton version but this will do. I have to find a coordinating lining for it though which I’m sure will be colour-matching scheme from heck. Or I could just buy another yard and have a thicker ‘ribbon’ corset. Choices. Choices.

Off white broadcloth, white eyelet, Wine poly/cotton twill, ivory cotton lawn”]I won’t bore  you with ranting about the other things I got like a few spools of Coats and Clark thread to match my project and the cutest little flower buttons for the camisole. 

And the following are back up buttons that I bought at Walmart for $0.62 a piece. They’re probably a whole 1/4 inch larger than the flower buttons above.

Within the next couple of days I’ll post  a link to a haul video if I feel like breaking out the tripod for some non-shaky camera work.

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Official Euro Kimono Update #3? [#2?]

July 25, 2011 at 11:34 pm (Dress Diaries, Updates) (, , , , , , , )

Sorry it’s been such a hot minute since I last posted anything. I was working on a post on the side but to date it’s looking about 4 pages long. Talk about long-winded. But luckily for you I won’t be posting it. Basically I finished reinforcing the first set of pattern pieces. Why I wasted precious construction paper I don’t really know. I say waste because the pieces are double the size they’re supposed to be. For example the corset in the book is made of 2″ ribbon, the pattern pieces I drafted are approximately 4″ in width.

I reduced the patterns over the weekend after some trial and error that ate up nearly all of my gift wrap. I now have to go back and reinforce those. Thankfully they aren’t as big as the other pieces so no more shameless wasting of construction paper will occur.

I also did a dye test on the solid white cotton lawn using 1 exhausted tea bag. The main fabric’s background is a really creamy, eggshell colour. Granted it’s still white but the cotton lawn would have stood out noticeably. Lucky for me, the colour came out right on the first go! Now I just have to get more cotton lawn and try to achieve the same colour.

Left to Right; undyed cotton lawn, main fabric, tea dyed cotton lawn

My sewing machine is broken so I’ve been day dreaming for the most part about a new one and sewing up the long sweeping sleeves. So for the most part I’ve been handsewing, which is relaxing and very theraputic in it’s own right. I ended up sewing up several channels  on plain white muslin and trying out my hand at cording. I used this rather expensive hemp I got at joanns in a big ball. It worked out fine as you can see but it darkens the muslin obviously. In person anyway. It’s really sturdy and has a good weight to it. However I’m not too good at covering up my awl holes. They’re a bit…sparse. So when I do cord the ‘ribbon’ I’ll know to poke the holes on the underside so the right side is much nicer looking.

I went to go see if a cotton yarn would make any difference but I couldn’t find my needle or even my brand new pack of needles. I still can’t find it so I’ve been twiddling my thumbs for awhile thinking of all the things I could be doing. It’s killing me. No needles, no sewing machine. I also can’t find my rulers. I have several of them and they have all gone incognito. So that means I can’t even draft a pattern. I also can’t get measurements to draft my mudkip dress pattern because my tapes [yes, two seamstress tapes] have also gone missing. I’m either losing my mind or someone is trying their best to provoke me.

Ugh.

On another note! Before I lost my needles I beaded a sampler on my first attempt at a fabric window. I used white muslin, pink polyester chiffon something or other [it was a remnant at joanns], 6.0 seed beads [opaque white] and 8.0 seed beads [clear rainbowish ones]. The beads are Darice beads so basically they’re crappy knock off czech beads.

8.0 seed beads left; 6.0 seed beads right

 
I think I like the 8.0 seed beads better. They aren’t as chunky as the 6.0’s which give it a more ‘rustic’ appearance. This look is a bit more refined. I plan on using miyuki’s for the sake of uniformity. TSummerlee says Czech beads are best for bead embroidery but I beg to differ!  We shall see….

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Official Euro-Kimono Update #1

July 7, 2011 at 10:51 pm (Dress Diaries, Updates) (, , , , , , )

So yesterday definitly had to be the first day that things ran relatively smoothly and gave a sense that this project was destined to become a reality. The top of the pattern fit well but the muslin was refusing to drape at all but it’s probably because I cut everything on the straight. I’m going to probably experiment with cutting slightly on the bias to see if that makes any difference. I’ve never cut directly on the bias before but I have witnessed the sort of disaster it can turn into. So for now, the top of my kimono reminds me of a nurse’s scrub top.

The back with all the fruffy gathering didn’t end up as I had hoped. What I had planned was to sew down the back seam, finish the edge of the excess, gather it up and then flip the gathering over and stitch it to the straight edge. UnfortunatlyI forgot to add the clipped straight edge to my pattern and ended up with a small army of gathers pinched together and roughly handsewn onto the back of the top. It’s unsightly. More unsightly then the horrendous black thread bunched up along the seam. My sewing machine is on the fritz, not sure why. I think there is something wrong with the bobbin tension mechanism…

Also the gathering ended up being three inches too high. >.<” But that was a quick fix on the pattern.I’ll have to cut another mock up to test it out. I’m a fool when it comes to certain things. Sort of like how I wanted to have a petticoat but made all the pieces straight! No slanting  to even make room. Granted I think even with the straight lines the kimono will be so unfitted it will just have to make room. If that makes any sense…

But last night I bought my main fabric, all 10 yards of it, as well as several half yards of fabric canidates for the petticoat, cut outs, and neckband. I’m feeling really peeved that there aren’t any tutorials on fabric cut outs. The closest I’ve seen to what I want is a ‘lace window’ tutorial from Sew Beautiful Mag.  So maybe once I’ve done a few, learned from previous mistakes I’ll make my own video tutorial for those who are visual learners like I am. Maybe there’s a specific terminology that I’m missing…

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A Progressive Sunday

July 3, 2011 at 7:21 pm (Dress Diaries, Updates) (, , , )

Today has been a really positive journey so far. I’ve made plenty of progress on making my patterns. I had to revamp a few things and make final decisions on how I want it to look/drape. I always seem to make the mistake of thinking in excess. It’s the reason why I had to cut the front piece in half. The large bulk just didn’t look right and the shoulder to waist measurement was much larger than what I had intended. So I shrank everything down and decided that all I really needed was the top 26 and a half inches to see how well the pattern would fit. Granted there wouldn’t be the weight of the ‘skirt’ to make it drape like it normally would but this is just a test to see if my pattern making skills really do pwn Simplicity’s pattern-making software.

Later on today I’ll make a toile/mock up out of the muslin I purchased a bit ago at Joanns. The only thin I’m worried about is the shoulder seam and how far down my arm it goes. I’m afraid that it won’t go down far enough and I would have just made a vest for myself with a peplum back. Not that this will be a hard thing to fix. 

Anyways, here are a few pictures since my last few posts have been mainly text and wholly uninteresting because of it.

As you can see I could not get a clear shot of my pattern for the sheer fact that my cat thought that I had laid out a game made out of paper and nail polish bottles  for her. But you get the jyst right? The only reason why I used the nail polish bottles is because the pattern is made out of gift wrap that comes on a roll. It likes to curl up which creates shadows and doesn’t look to awesome on camera. They are my cheap alternative to fabric weights also.

Last night I was flipping through my fashion book by the Kyoto Costume Institute and came upon these pictures [p. 300 and 301]. I don’t really see a resemblence between this and my idea for the sleeves, do you?

Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute; p. 301

courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute; p. 300

[Charles Frederick Worth evening dress c. 1894]

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Success!

July 3, 2011 at 12:24 am (Dress Diaries, General costuming, Updates) (, , , , , , )

Yes, I know. I -just- posted. And it was one hell of a post. Long, lengthy, confusing, a peek into my labrynth oriented mind. I hope you enjoyed. But the point of it all is that I had to post just one more time tonight since Dunkin’ Donuts 99 cent iced teas were getting my thinking juices going.

I’ve been sitting here pouting over my lack of fabric ideas. Or at least that I couldn’t use the patterns I had fallen in love with because they were too small. This entire time, since I thought of the kimono from the 1920s featured on Antiques Roadshow, I’ve been keeping myself to the guidlines of no small print, only something large and symbolic. Well in terms of how fabric these days go, it really slimmed my selection quite a bit. I found myself, no lie, twenty minutes ago sighing and thinking ‘I guess I’ll just get solid red’. Then it struck me.

I should do a google search.

The search ‘vintage kimonos’ reaffirmed what I thought. Then I tried ‘antique’ kimonos to see if changing the adjective would help. And boy did it. I landed myself on kimonos.co.uk and had my whole world turned on it’s head. My project world anyway. So I’m happy to announce that I will be buying some gorgeous cotton lawn before Monday since the red, white, and blue sale ends that day.

However I’m not sure if I should get red to deepen the kimono or white to brighten it. I’m leaning towards white because I feel it would look more ‘ethereal’ which is what I’m all about these days. [Floaty fabric, a fascination with sheer fabric, clouds, come on!] But I think red would look very stately, very lady-like. I’m tempted to even put a small ruffle along the collar to make it fit more era than one. It already does by the way I’ve added a petticoat to fill it out. The only thing, and I swear this is a real issue, is the corset and the amount of chest support I’ll have.

That is another post for another day.

Anyways, that’s my break through. I am successful. I am victorious. Google is the most brilliant thing ever thought up. And I feel like I’ll get a yard or two of both red and white to see which one I like best. I have an idea that red will win. Just an inkling.

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Oh What A Saturday…

July 2, 2011 at 11:05 pm (Dress Diaries, General costuming, Updates) (, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , )

CAUTION: If you dislike long blog posts, I am so sorry. There’s a lot of rambling here that I can break up into smaller posts. It’s the essence of my flow of conciousness.

After a few situations this morning I find myself in my local Dunkin’ Donuts doing what I do best: wasting time in order to get away.

This have gone crazy, as usual, in that little prison I’m supposed to call home. But enough of this and more of what I came here to post.

I’ve been driving myself crazy with this kimono project. I feel that it is within my grasp to get some serious preliminary work done with it during this extended holiday weekend. Already, last night I drew up the pattern pieces and drafted the sleeve pattern to be longer than the Simplicity pattern 4080 intended. It’s longer than the pattern by three inches but that’s enough to make it drift only inches away from from the floor. The original had sleeves that flowed effortlessly all the way to the ground. Very sweet, very romantic and probably more practical than I figure it to be. Me and floor length sleeves equals a very ungraceful face plant. If I do make the sleeves that long I can only hope that I’m walking on plush grass or moss to cushion the blow.

I’m trying to figure out the train that I want to add along the bottom. Should be easy, I know. I’m just debating on how long the train should be. I’m not going for a train of Mariah-Carey’s-royalty-defying proportions. [Yes, I -still- think Mariah Carey is a b*tch for outdoing Princess Diana.]  Just something appropriate and not fiddly. Something long enough that it will show when I walk but pool nicely when I stand still.

Also I’ve come upon a colour of preference, as if that is going to help with my fabric dilema, which is red. The colour of joy, happiness, and good luck. 

Here is a link to Jenny LaFleur’s kimono that gave me the inspiration to do this:

http://jennylafleur.com/diary/kimono.htm

As you can tell I’m not copying it in anyway but using it as an inspiration as well as using her dress diary as a cautionary tale. I do like her ideas of two darts going up along the back to make it more fitted. This is only because I will be wearing a corset underneath circa 1900-1910. In the book of corsets [can’t think of the exact title right now] by Jill Salen, there is a wonderful Eratz corset made out of WW2 paper fabric. It’s beautiful in it’s coarseness and ‘pauper’ qualities. The only set back is that in the book it is dated 1914, but what’s four years?

The more I look at these Edwardian corsets the more I like them. However I am not a fan of the ‘juno’ breast that they aim to acheive. While the clothing made to fit this sort of figure is beautiful it is a tried and true frustrating stance to maintain. My spine hurts just thinking about it. I was hoping to make an overbust version but I don’t have any available patterns for that. I’m rather frugal in my approach to patterns. Aka I won’t buy any commerically made unless Joanns has them for the awesome sale of 5 for $5 or maybe the rare 5 for $10. And alas there are no commerical patterns for this variety of corset. For a style that’s relatively ‘recent’ and madly popular at the time you would think someone besides Nora Waugh has a pattern for it. I’m tempted to splurge and spend the $40-$60 sticker price for her book from the 1950s. I’ve heard that the patterns are a pain to resize and fit but that’s an assumption made up off of one review on Amazon. Hehe, I’m so fickle….

Things Going Badly:

  • Finding/choosing a suitable fabric. [ugh]
  • Finding the room to do it

Things Running Smoothly:

  • Pattern development
  • Idea Refinement
  • Idea Finalization [sorta]

The colour of the neckband and the beads will match. And as a lover of pleats and gathers, there will be a small portion of gathering along the mid back to help shape it. I hope. I’m also hoping that small bit of gathering will help the train flow nicely and pool like I want it to. I also have to figure out how I’m going to make this petticoat. And if I make this underbust corset I won’t have anything to support my chest and for a pseudo period costume I don’t think I’m going to wear a modern bra nor am I going to go without. [shudder] So maybe I’ll make combination underwear? Attach the petticoat to half of a camisole slip or make the petticoat and camisole seperate? Oh I don’t know.

Ideas?

It only came to mind when I decided to watch a few videos on heirloom sewing. Not sure why but I did and I sort of want to try it. Especially since I’ve only worked once with pintucks and at that time I didn’t know they were even pin tucks. I called them ‘flaps’ in a written ‘skirt diary’. But that was when I was really,and I mean really, big into Gothic Lolita and making my own Lolita clothes because, as some of you might know, GL clothing is expensive and only comes in sizes that fit up to a US size 10. 12 if you happen to be really lucky.

Meh, maybe I’ll attempt a cute jumper dress one of these days since I’m not totally out of that ‘oh gosh look how cute that Lolita is!!’ phase. I still have a bunny purse I bought off of Elliseven [LSeven, LS7, Ellis, or the chick with an R2D2 gif for her Hairextension board icon, whatever you call her]. Tiny but perfect for cons.

Hm. Cons, Lolita, an unfinished Mudkip costume…I feel a spark of genius coming on.

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The Perfect Fabric

June 30, 2011 at 1:02 am (Dress Diaries, General, General costuming) (, , , , , , , , , , , , , )

Okay, okay, I admit it.

It’s this whole ‘find the perfect fabric’ that’s got my costuming panties in a bunch. I thought I found it but the print was way too small to look good so I let it sit on my ‘search results’ page, only for me to glance at it and wish that they had a larger print version. I searched and searched and came up with another canidate but alas it’s damn near $13 per yard. This is supposed to be a cheap project to hold me over until I can get to the historical nitty gritty of my Duchess costume.

So my frustrating search continues to find the perfect printed cotton voile. It’s almost as if those making voile have collaborated to make their product in only three categories: solid coloured, funky outdated 80s prints, and florals best suited for a nightie. Or maybe four categories, the fourth one being outrageously expensive but exquisite prints.

This is really typical of me. And it’s borderline shameful how many ‘sit downs’ I have to have with myself over this. I might as well just get a solid colour and call it a day instead of spending more hours than I want to in front of my computer trying to find The Perfect Fabric.

It’s gotten to the point where I’ve been sitting on my ass for just about three hours now, simply contemplating if I should make this kimono or not because nothing is really ‘popping’ out at me. But I know I’m too in love with this romantic vision I have in my head. I know that I can make it a reality with the proper lighting and scenery. It’s just the question of will anyone ever have a printed cotton voile for under $6 that I will fall in love with and happily sew up? One with a big enough print in a colour that strikes me and screams ‘Rose would be jealous!!’?

I’ve been trying to avoid ebay for my fabric needs since it’s always pricey. That and I’ve been doing really well in managing my obsession with auctions. But I need to cover my all my bases. Maybe that’s where The Perfect Fabric is lurking.

Besides the fabric issue I’ve battling with a decision to either make an Edwardian corset from the early 1900s or just wear the modern underbust I have lurking in my attic somewhere…

Decisions. Decisions.

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Mini Update #4

May 31, 2010 at 7:49 am (Dress Diaries, General costuming, Hair, Updates)

It’s past 3 am now and I’ve only just gotten around to posting this up.

No, I wasn’t -that- busy. It just slipped my mind and as soon as I remember 4 people IMed me at once and made me forget about it again. Well not this time. No boyfriend of mine is going to keep me from posting this even though I will probably click on his name glowing orange in my task bar some time during this post.

But I went on a shopping trip with my mother, surprising isn’t it, to the thrift store. It was packed, seeing as though the last saturday of the month is ‘half off clothing and linens’ day. We began talking and in the end we both walked away with some great stuff and I practically got free clothes, mainly skirts. I stumbled upon a treasure trove of framed corset adds from 1899 to the mid 1920s. Of course being the corset freak, which is also surprising because I’m thinking of scraping the corset idea for ‘raving mudkip’, I couldn’t chose between which one. I wanted all of them but settled on a W.B. Corset ad from 1899 or so I’m guessing by the style and construction. It wasn’t behind glass like the others so it was $1.50 as is unlike $3 for the others. I’m hoping to go to Michaels and find an appropriate frame for it.

 

But onto the cosplay! At the same thrift store I managed to find myself this blanket that was a pretty shade of blue as well as a men’s shirt that is a lightish blue with orange stripes as part of a plaid pattern. The coours are really off cut they look cute and when it comes down to it, this is mudkip on a budget. I’ve already splurged enough on the wool that made these dreads:

Some curls are kind of droopy so I think I’m going to go ahead and felt the crap out of them until I can find the perfect setting on my washing mashine like DreadStarMonster advised. I’m probably going to dye some of the chunkier dreads and put them in the mix for a good mesh of visual textures.

Also at the thrift store I found this fuzzy blanket that instantly reminded me of a failed attempt at gators in 2008 at my first Otakon. So since it was half off linens I got the blanket for about $2. I’ve grown kind of attached to it so I don’t know if I’ll actually lop it up into a pair of gators just yet.

From right to left: blue sheet [twin size – to be used for the skirt], button down shirt that may or may not be shredded [it’s cute as a completely logical reason], furry blanket that has a velvety underside to it making it really thick and cozy.

So many shades…almost makes me want to rethink the design so it’s not so cluttered and ‘blue-clashy’…if you know what I mean.

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A Random Petticoat Tutorial

February 22, 2010 at 6:13 am (Dress Diaries, General costuming, Tutorials) (, , , , , , )

Between sorting out financial issues and assisting with the quickly upcoming production of RENT I hardly have time to work on my corset which is rather sad because i carry it around with me just in case I have a bit of downtime. No such luck since I’m in the boning or, in this case, cording stage.

My need to be creative caused me to start a paper tutorial in the small amount of downtime I had one evening. It was inspired by a Youtube tutorial by Himehood:

I was inspired because you know ruffles always make me think of petticoats. And as darling as they are they are a pain in the butt to make, especially if you like the layered and tiered look. I have to give my special thanks to Julie who taught me how to ruffle, or rather gather, fabric using cord and zigzag stitch on the machine. So without further ado this is my very simple petticoat with variations already thought up for you. Enjoy! ^.^

Petticoatslide1.jpg pts1 picture by ForbiddenRose15

Slide 1

petticoatslide2.jpg pts2 picture by ForbiddenRose15

Slide 2

Petticoatslide3.jpg pts3 picture by ForbiddenRose15

Slide 3

Petticoatslide4.jpg pts4 picture by ForbiddenRose15

Slide 4

Petticoatslide5.jpg pts5 picture by ForbiddenRose15

Slide 5

petticoatslide6.jpg pts6 picture by ForbiddenRose15

Slide 6 - Variations

Note: You’re probably why I’m so obsessed with the amount of warmth in this petticoat. It’s just the fact that I live up North and I have this thing about wearing shortish skirts during the winter. And just incase the nerves in my legs decide to detect cold again I don’t want my petticoat to be counterproductive. Same thing in the summer. It would be a tragedy to get stuck in a warm-as-all-get-out petticoat during July. So you might as well make two! ^.^

I know you want to!

[Threadbanger worthy?]

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A New Costume endeavor

February 8, 2010 at 6:25 pm (Dress Diaries, General costuming) (, , , , , )

 It starts with my infatuation over this:  

Silk stays of deliciousness

 The most gorgeous stays I have ever seen in my entire life. They are pink silk stays from the 17th century belonging to  the V&A museum in London. Upon seeing them I was instantly overwhelmed by the sewing feat that it would be so I figured that I would do something like it just to get my feet wet in the world of fully boned two-laced stays. Below is the process thus far. [Warning: Picture heavy. I like taking pictures. Especially now that I have a boyfriend who lets me get my sticky fingers all over his stuff including his camera. Oh and the winter sunlight on my windowsill is gorgeous too.]       

The pattern on the large piece of taped together white paper was derived from the brown tissue pattern on the right. It was a bodice pattern from Simplicity’s Renaissance collection; #4488. I traced the pattern of my size [no telling here] in a marker that bleeds a lot onto printer paper and then modified it using scissors, tape, and highlighters. I can’t explain exactly how I did it but it was a lot of cutting, taping and adjusting with a ruler. The shape I was going off of was this pattern I found online at marquise.de:  

http://marquise.de/en/1700/schnitte/corps_ouvert1.gif
Then I got a little highlighter crazy. Here are some detail shots [click for larger views]:

  

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